I finally responded to P2’s request to put
on paper what I think of the Q-Rings that I recently installed on both my Cervelo Soloist and Specialized Tarmac. Before you
start reading my review on the Q-Rings, I have to admit a “Mea Culpa”, better yet a “Mea Maximums Culpa”
if it is not as objective as could be, or precise equipments were not properly utilized to get the most results. It
is basically a subjective feel on my part, and the only the equipment that I rely on to get best results is my bike computer.
I also have to say, that it has been 12 years when I was going through my graduate studies when I formally wrote subjective
case study, and the language may not be as conducive as one with an English major. But, I will follow P2s format since this
is his baby, and will try to be as clear as possible.
Some
of you have commented why I have been pedaling in an unusual way lately. Well for one, my right leg is actually a few
millimeters shorter than my left leg; this was due to a ruptured right Achilles tendon which occurred during my time in the
military. This is probably the reason why I cannot acquire a well developed spin. The other reason is that I have recently
installed the Rotor Components, so called Q-Ring on both of my road bikes. I purchased the exterior Q-Ring about a month ago
from the FACT website (http://www.fact-canada.com/Rotorcranks) for a sale price $96.60 and installed a 50-tooth, 130 BCD (Shimano Compatible)
on my FSA K-light pedals. If you purchased the same Q-Ring at the Rotor Cranks website (http://www.rotorusa.com/s1-q-rings.shtml) you will end up paying $185 for each individual ring and $220 for the double
Q-Ring set. If you have not seen the Q-Rings before, the odd shape maybe similar to the Shimano Bio-Pace, but the Q-Rings
are different. The difference from the Bio-Pace is that the Rotor Q-Ring has encircled their chainrings with timing holes
and the odd shape is actually elliptical, while the Bio-Pace is asymmetrical. So depending on your pedaling stroke, you can
position the ring to where you feel comfortable or to where you feel the most power output. According to the Rotor website
“Q-Rings take into consideration static forces from your legs and the inertia of the cyclist and the bicycle. This maximizes
the efficiency and comfort of conventional cranks.”
The
installation was quite simple using a 5mm Allen wrench, and took approximately 20 minutes to remove the original FSA outer
rings and replaced with the Q-Ring. What was great about changing the chainring, is that I get the chance to clean all
the crud and Gatorade residue that got stuck on the inside portion of my crankset and on the outer section of the bottom bracket.
I can honestly say that the Q-Ring has improved my pedaling stroke significantly. Now, I may not have a power
meter to validate the improvements in my wattage after changing my chainrings, but I feel that I am now pedaling a lot smoother
and easier, when climbing uphill on the 50 teeth Q-Ring. Can I say that the improvement is due to the smaller chainring which
similar to a compact ring. Noticed that I said smoother and easier, which can be contributed to the elliptical shape of the
Q-Ring. I have also noticed in my bike computer that I have increased my climbing speed in Torrey Pines by an average of 4
mph, from 8 mph to 12 mph. Now it may not be enough to keep up with Raffy or even with Mango or Reggie, but it is respectable
enough to keep up with most 46 year-old weekend rider. I also noticed that I can now utilize my 21 cog instead of the 25 that
I normally use when I climb Torrey, and still with a smoother spin.
Now,
if you see me keeping up with Raffy when climbing all these big hills and mountains in San Diego, then you will start wondering
whether it is actually the Q-ring or some magic concoction that deserves the attention of WADA.
